When people talk about the Mont Blanc massif, the conversation almost always circles back to Chamonix. But on the other side of the massif, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains and Les Contamines-Montjoie offer a quieter, more family-oriented approach to this legendary terrain. No morning queues at the cable car, no crowded trails. Just the mountain, open pastures, and views of the glaciers that most hikers never discover. If you want to hike in Haute-Savoie without the tourist pressure of Chamonix, this duo is well worth the trip.
Val Montjoie: the gateway
The road climbing from Saint-Gervais toward Les Contamines follows the Bon Nant, a fast-moving river that has carved the Val Montjoie valley over centuries. The valley is narrow and steep-sided, lined with conifer forests, with pastures opening up gradually as you gain elevation. Les Contamines-Montjoie sits at the far end of this valley, at around 1,160 metres, a few kilometres above Saint-Gervais.
Most hikes start from the hamlet of Notre-Dame de la Gorge, higher up the valley. A baroque chapel marks the entrance to the site, and several trails converge here. The car park fills up fast in high season: arriving before 8am is strongly recommended.
Col du Joly: a family classic
The Col du Joly is arguably the most iconic hike in the area for families whose children already have a few mountain outings under their belt. The route from Les Contamines follows a well-marked trail rising steadily through open Alpine pastures. The view from the top is generous: on one side the Mont Blanc chain, on the other a sweeping drop toward the Beaufortain and the Savoy Alps.
The climb is sustained but involves no technical passages. In July and August, rhododendrons in bloom line the path and add a splash of colour to the ascent. It is an excellent way to introduce children to real mountain effort without putting them off: the trail is consistent, natural rest spots allow recovery, and the summit is visible from far below.
Mont Joly: for those who want to go higher
For hikers looking for more serious ground, Mont Joly rises above 2,500 metres and delivers one of the most complete views of the Mont Blanc chain from this side of the massif. The ascent calls for solid fitness and proper mountain footwear. From the top, on a clear day, the panorama stretches across the Mont Blanc massif, the Aravis range, and deep into the Savoy Alps.
Mont Joly sits in a sweet spot: not as heavily trafficked as the famous Chamonix summits, yet perfectly achievable for an experienced hiker in good shape on a clear day with an early start. Conditions can change quickly at this altitude: check the forecast the evening before and do not hesitate to turn back if cloud builds by mid-morning.
Two villages, two feels
Saint-Gervais-les-Bains is a spa town with genuine year-round village life. Shops, bakeries and grocery stores make it easy to put together a trail lunch before setting off. The village is also home to the Mont Blanc Tramway, a historic rack railway that climbs to the Nid d'Aigle and can be combined with a descent on foot for a varied day out.
Les Contamines-Montjoie has a quieter, almost intimate character. The village has stayed human-sized. It is a well-known starting point for hikers tackling the Tour du Mont-Blanc (TMB), making it a comfortable base for a full week of hiking in the Mont Blanc region.
Practical: when to go and how to plan
The ideal season runs from mid-June to mid-September. In June, trails at higher elevations may still carry patches of snow. In September, conditions are often excellent and foot traffic drops off, making the hikes even more enjoyable.
Accommodation options range from mountain huts to the spa hotels of Saint-Gervais. Several refuges are dotted across the higher ground for those planning multi-day routes. Bivouacking is possible under certain conditions in this area, but zones near the glaciers are regulated: check with the local town hall before pitching your tent.
For access, Saint-Gervais has good train connections from Saint-Gervais-les-Bains-Le Fayet station on the Mont Blanc Express line. By car, the village is easy to reach from Sallanches and the main valley floor.
Conclusion
Saint-Gervais and Les Contamines make a complementary pair for anyone wanting to experience the Mont Blanc massif without diving headfirst into the Chamonix crowd. The hiking is varied, the scenery is spectacular, and the atmosphere stays true to a mountain genuinely lived in. A corner of the Alps worth keeping in mind for a day when you want altitude, quiet and open views over the giants of the range.